In the media we see protests against all the tourists in Spain's cities. People here ask us in the little bars, and at the school gates too: ‘What are you all doing here?’ and ‘Why are there suddenly so many of you?’ But protests like the ones in Barcelona or Malaga simply do not happen here. So why not?
Contents
- The origins of the Costa Blanca
- The rise of tourism
- Housing types and the way the coast was built up
- Residents and nationalities
- The region's reputation: luxury holiday destination vs working region
- The climate on the Costa Blanca North
- Why is it such a lovely holiday destination?
- The main places, and the nicest places, on the Costa Blanca North.
- Always been hugely popular, but now just that bit more.
- Recent figures: the Dutch presence on the Costa Blanca North
- The share of Dutch buyers on the property market
- House price growth over the past 12 months
- A good combination
The origins of the Costa Blanca
Originally the Costa Blanca North, and with it the Marina Alta region, was not a glamorous luxury resort or a tourist destination at all. It was a string of pretty little fishing villages and farming communities at the foot of the mountains. People in Dénia, Jávea, Moraira, Altea and Calpe lived mainly from fishing, growing vegetables and their vineyards (especially moscatel from the Jalón valley).
Historically the region has a deep-rooted Iberian and Roman presence, with later traces of Moorish culture; the name ‘Marina’ refers to the way it faces the sea. For centuries people here lived a modest, authentic existence, closely tied to the sea, the mountains and the rhythm of the seasons.
The original inhabitants:
- Fishermen from local villages such as Dénia and Calpe
- Farmers and winegrowers, scattered across the interior
- A deliberate use of the Montes (hills) and Sierra (mountain range) as natural partners
The Moors, Muslim peoples from North Africa, ruled here between the 8th and 13th centuries. They brought irrigation systems, farming techniques and a rich building culture with them. Today their influence lives on in the architecture and in colourful traditions such as the annual Moros y Cristianos festivals, in which the Christian and Moorish past is symbolically re-enacted with parades, fireworks and music. These festivals are not only cultural heritage, they are also a much-loved event for residents and visitors alike.
The rise of tourism
Costa Blanca was a marketing term, a way of presenting the region just a little better. Spaniards from Madrid discovered it as a summer escape. They came by car, often for weeks at a time. Many of those families still return every year to their apartment in Dénia or their villa in Jávea. I still find it funny that when you get into a taxi in Madrid, just about every driver tells you his family has a house in Javea. And it may well be true. Plenty of houses have been in whole families for years and are passed down from generation to generation.
From the 1950s and 1960s, when Spain began positioning itself as a holiday country and the term Costa Blanca was born, this stretch of coast started to develop into a much-loved summer destination for Spanish city dwellers, above all from Madrid and Valencia. But from smarter Bilbao too.
- Families from Madrid discovered the cooler sea air, the wide beaches and the rustic beauty of the Costa Blanca North.
- They bought simple beach houses or apartments on the edge of villages like Jávea, Moraira, Altea, Dénia and Calpe.
- Generations grew up on this coast: Spanish holidaymakers who spent their summers here year after year, and still do.
From the 1970s foreigners followed. Germans, Britons, the Dutch. Foreign tourism was taking off. They fell in love with the light, the climate, the mountains that run straight down into the sea.
Benidorm, just south of the Marina Alta, played a key role in putting this region on the international map. From the 1960s onwards, airlines and tour operators offered special winter packages, complete with accommodation, meals and entertainment, aimed above all at British, German and later Dutch pensioners. There are even whole documentaries about it. Showing them peeling the spuds they had brought over from the Netherlands. It was mostly done because the hotels stood empty in winter. That way the economy kept turning.
The mild winters and the good healthcare made it a logical choice. That effect filtered through to the surrounding areas such as Calpe, Altea and Jávea. There, winter visitors found quieter alternatives with more space and more character, but with the same climate and comfort.
From the 1980s, wintering here became a trend in its own right, helped by attractive fixed monthly rates and the rise of cheap flights. Thousands of Europeans still choose a long stay in this area every year, often in the same urbanisation, sometimes even in the same house as the year before. They really do build a life here.
Housing types and the way the coast was built up
The Costa Blanca kept getting a little more popular. A great many urbanisations and holiday homes were built for foreign buyers. Whole residential districts appeared with apartments, houses and luxury villas close to the sea, or high up the mountain with a view over it. So from the 1960s the developers were already aiming squarely at the foreign buyer. These urbanisations often had plenty of communal facilities. Sports facilities, swimming pools, communal gardens and a few shops or a little restaurant, for example. That made them attractive to people buying a second home and to holidaymakers. Many of these houses were built with white façades, red (terracotta-coloured roof tiles and arcades). Traditional fishermen's cottages, townhouses and fincas gradually gave way to the modern villas, apartments and holiday parks that characterise the coastline today.
Residents and nationalities
The crowd here became steadily more international. It started mainly with Britons and Germans. After Brexit the number of Britons did drop off a little. But you can still see it in the Overseas supermarkets and the typically English restaurants. Other nationalities settled here too, including a lot of Dutch, Belgians and Scandinavians, drawn by the climate and the lifestyle. In the province of Alicante around 20% of the population is now foreign, mainly British, Dutch, German and, in more recent years, Russian. Alongside foreign residents there are also plenty of Spaniards from outside the region (from Madrid and Valencia, for example) who own a second home in the Marina Alta or spend the summer here. Because so many (well-off) people came from Madrid, Valencia, Bilbao and Murcia, good restaurants followed. In our village there is Ausias. A restaurant that has its hopes set on a Michelin star. They really do aim at the tourists from Madrid. That is their biggest audience. In winter you see Spaniards, pensioners and semi-permanent residents from all over Europe. In summer these are lively seaside towns.
The region's reputation: luxury holiday destination vs working region
The northern Costa Blanca is clearly known as a tourist and residential holiday region with a relatively luxurious image. Even though you can now buy frikandellen and kroketten here, you really do notice that it is a slightly more expensive area. You feel a big difference with, say, the Costa Blanca South. The coastal towns of the Costa Blanca South run largely on tourism: sectors such as hospitality, wineries, property and leisure dominate the local economy. The area draws visitors and residents with its marinas, beaches, golf courses and quality restaurants, which adds up to a relatively high-end and relaxed way of life. Denia is the creative city of gastronomy, for instance, as designated by Unesco. Although there are of course locals here working ordinary jobs, the general feel of the Marina Alta is that of a prosperous, international stretch of coast geared to luxury holidays and comfortable living. It is not a region of heavy industry or large factories; instead you find attractive residential areas, resorts and authentic village centres full of terraces and boutiques for visitors.
The climate on the Costa Blanca North
The climate of the Marina Alta is one of its great draws. The area has a classic Mediterranean climate with mild winters, warm summers and plenty of sunshine all year round. In January, the coolest month, afternoon temperatures average around 15–17°C, while in the summer months highs of 35°C or more are reached. Even so, it generally does not get too hot, thanks to the sea breeze. Its sheltered position (behind surrounding mountains such as the Montgó near Jávea, for example) and the influence of the Mediterranean keep the climate moderate and pleasant, without extreme cold or heat. Rainfall is limited (around 500–600 mm a year, mostly in spring and autumn), so visitors can count on a great many sunny days. The region boasts a good 300 sunny days a year (and I have even read 310/320 days). This year it rained rather more than usual, but even so it stayed hugely appealing. In fact, the northern Costa Blanca regularly brags that it has one of the healthiest climates in the world. The combination of clean sea and mountain air, plenty of sun and a stable temperature is said to be good for your health. For me (Lindy), with my nerve and joint pain, the climate really is better. My fibromyalgia is far less bad here. This gentle climate means you can be outdoors all year round, from swimming and sailing in summer to golf and walking in winter. In short, mild and sunny weather all year round contributes enormously to the appeal of this stretch of coast.
Why is it such a lovely holiday destination?
The Costa Blanca North (Marina Alta) has been growing in popularity as a holiday destination for decades now, for several very convincing reasons:
- Climate and health The weather is mild and sunny all year round. That gentle climate, combined with clean sea air, makes for a pleasant stay in any season. There is a good reason the area is praised for its healthy living conditions.
- Nature and beaches You will find long white sandy beaches here (but also plenty of beaches with big pebbles), rugged cliffs and green mountains. Dotted along the coast are countless Blue Flag beaches (no fewer than 59 along the whole Costa Blanca) with safe, clean water, ideal for sunbathing, swimming and every kind of watersport. Famous, for instance, is the rock of Peñón de Ifach in Calpe, a giant limestone rock rising out of the sea that you can climb as a nature park for a phenomenal view. It is also said to be a place of power, just like on Ibiza. Every village has a spot as well where you can be lowered into the water in a wheelchair that floats. That is only open in high season, though. Inland you will also find valleys full of vineyards (Moscatel wine from the Jalón valley) and orchards, which opens up walking, hiking and cycling with fantastic views. In short, from beaches to mountains, nature lovers get more than their money's worth.
- Culture, history and atmosphere The Marina Alta also charms with its cultural heritage and its authentic atmosphere. In Dénia a centuries-old castle sits on a hill right in the middle of town, and Altea and Jávea have picturesque old centres with whitewashed houses and churches with blue-tiled domes that form the classic image of the Costa Blanca. Many of these villages were originally fishing settlements and have largely kept their Spanish character despite the tourism, so you still find local markets, fishing harbours with fresh fish, and traditional fiestas all year round. The relaxed Mediterranean way of life is tangible here: tapas on a terrace, evening strolls along the promenade, and easy contact between locals and visitors. The area has a creative side too; Altea in particular is known as an artists' village, packed with galleries and studios. This mix of history, art and tradition gives the region a charm all of its own.
- Amenities and access As a well-established tourist region, the Costa Blanca North offers excellent amenities. There are marinas, golf courses (in Jávea, La Sella (Pedreguer) and Moraira, for example), water parks, shopping centres and countless restaurants, from local cooking to international options. Access is good as well: the region lies between the cities of Valencia and Alicante, both with international airports about an hour's drive away, and the AP-7 motorway connects all the coastal towns quickly. From Denia you are also on the Balearics in no time by ferry. A bit like heading off to the Wadden Islands, but different. That convenience makes it attractive for foreign visitors and homeowners, as you are relatively quickly ‘home’ in the holiday house. On top of that the region is safer and cheaper to live in than some of Spain's big cities or luxury destinations, with a relaxed pace of life that appeals to northern Europeans in particular.
All these factors together make the Marina Alta a much-loved holiday destination. The area ‘has the best of everything: mild weather, excellent food, a relaxed lifestyle, beautiful beaches and mountains, and plenty to do’. Whether you are after sunbathing and peace and quiet, sport and nature, or culture and good food, the Costa Blanca North delivers, in a friendly and beautiful setting.
We are now reading in the paper that on Mallorca they are having to close restaurants because it is quieter. There were serious protests against the tourists there. But that is absolutely not the case here.
The main places, and the nicest places, on the Costa Blanca North.
Dénia the capital of the Marina Alta, is a lively port town with around 40,000 inhabitants. It is known for the imposing medieval castle on its rock, looking out over the harbour and the old centre. Dénia has traditionally had one of the biggest ports in the region; ferries leave from here every day for the Balearics (Ibiza, Mallorca & Formentera). Dénia used to be an important fishing and trading town, but since tourism took off it has become a much-loved holiday destination as well. The town has miles of sandy beaches to the north (Las Marinas) and more rugged coves to the south (Las Rotas). Las Rotas really is beautiful, with those sweet little houses right by the water. As well as tourists from abroad, plenty of Spaniards from Valencia and elsewhere head to Dénia for their holidays, especially in summer. Besides beaches, Dénia offers an authentic centre with colourful houses, a daily fish market and excellent restaurants; Dénia is even a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. The nearby Montgó mountain (753 m) dominates the horizon between Dénia and Jávea and forms a nature park that walkers love.
Jávea (Xàbia) lies a little south of Dénia, at the foot of that same Montgó mountain. It is one of the most popular destinations for foreign residents in the region and has three centres: the historic old town, the port (Puerto) and the beach area of Arenal. Jávea has a beautiful old centre with narrow streets and white façades in the traditional style, including Gothic window details and little wrought-iron balconies. I really do love Xabia Old Town. This historic heart still breathes the atmosphere of centuries of fishing and trading life. I also really love the Mercathal. Down by the sea is the port, with a promenade full of restaurants and a view over the bay, where the fishing boats bring in their catch in the morning. There are some brilliant little places here and in summer you will find a small market too. Further along is Playa del Arenal, a crescent-shaped sandy bay with palm trees and a lively promenade full of bars and restaurants. We often jokingly call this Scheveningen. It is more touristy, but funnily enough you will also find a Michelin-starred restaurant and some genuinely good places to eat. Jávea is also known for its microclimate; together with Dénia, its climate is sometimes described as one of the healthiest in the world. Thanks to the big international community (British, German, Dutch and so on) you will find plenty of facilities as well, such as international schools and semi-private schools, which makes Jávea attractive to a lot of expats as a permanent home.
Moraira is a coastal town within the municipality of Teulada and counts as a slightly smaller, exclusive resort. Over recent decades the village has been transformed from a modest little fishing harbour into a charming holiday destination with luxury villa urbanisations in the hills around it. Moraira has deliberately allowed no high-rise, so the landscape is dominated by low-rise building and green slopes full of villas with sea views. Moraira's centre and marina offer stylish terraces, boutiques and fish restaurants, and close by lie two sheltered sandy beaches (L'Ampolla and El Portet) known for being clean and child-friendly. Moraira draws an international crowd but plenty of Spanish holidaymakers too; thanks to the upmarket feel, the good restaurants and the golf courses nearby, it has a reputation as a more luxurious holiday destination.
Altea lies south of Calpe and is often praised as the bohemian gem of the Costa Blanca. Altea's old centre, set on a hill, is a maze of whitewashed houses and cobbled streets full of flowers, and it has been beautifully preserved. Crowning it are the iconic blue-and-white tiled domes of the church of Nuestra Señora del Consuelo, the symbol of Altea. Over the years this picturesque setting has attracted countless artists, writers and musicians, which is why Altea is also called the ‘artists' capital of the Costa Blanca’. In the old town you will find any number of galleries, studios and craft shops. In the evening it is glorious to wander through the atmospherically lit alleyways with a view of the sea. Altea itself also has a quiet beach (more shingle than sand) and a lovely promenade. The contrast with buzzing Benidorm nearby could hardly be greater: Altea offers a calm, artistic atmosphere that is popular with visitors looking for authenticity and culture. Even so, luxury residential areas (such as Altea Hills) have appeared around Altea too, where well-off people, many of them foreigners, live. Altea therefore combines serene, traditional charm with modern exclusivity.
Calpe (Calp) catches the eye thanks to the imposing Peñón de Ifach rock that rises straight out of the sea, one of the most recognisable natural landmarks on the Costa Blanca. At the foot of that rock lies Calpe, a former fishing village that has grown into a lively tourist centre. In winter it really is a bit of a pensioners' enclave, if you ask me. Calpe went through heavy development in the second half of the 20th century, which you can see in the high-rise apartment blocks along the coastline (rather like a mini-Benidorm). That means Calpe is a little more built up and busier than the places mentioned above, but it also has amenities in abundance: wide promenades, shopping streets, night markets in summer and a broad choice of hotels. It has two main beaches (Playa Arenal-Bol and Playa La Fossa/Levante) with fine sand, separated by the Ifach rock, which can be climbed on foot as a nature park. Also unique to Calpe are the Salinas, salt lakes just inland from the centre, where flamingos are a regular sight. There are historic sights too, such as the Baños de la Reina (Queens Bath), the remains of Roman fish pools on the shore. Calpe attracts a mix of international tourism and has a slightly more affordable image than Moraira or Jávea, for example, which makes it very popular with a broad public. That said, luxury is hardly lacking: marinas on both sides of the Ifach and good fish restaurants (thanks to the still-active fishing fleet) make it appealing to food lovers too. In short, Calpe is known for sun, sea and an iconic landscape, where modern high-rise and natural beauty go hand in hand. And of course you have the famous Spanish Steps here as well. What strikes me is that the restaurants here are still a little friendlier on the wallet.
Always been hugely popular, but now just that bit more.
The northern Costa Blanca and the Jalón valley have seen a sharp rise in popularity over the past two years, particularly among the Dutch. The main drivers are the sunny climate, the lower cost of living and the relaxed lifestyle the region offers. Since the corona pandemic, flexible working from home has become normal too, which means younger families and working people now dare to take the step to Spain. Suddenly it was so easy to spend more time here. That has produced a striking emigration trend: in 2023 more than 4,800 Dutch people left for Spain, a rise of 54% on the five-year average before that. It makes Spain the third most popular emigration destination for the Dutch in 2024 (after Belgium and Germany). Dutch people want to escape the rat race of everyday life. Enjoying yourself suddenly became so important, after we had been shut in for so long.
Recent figures: the Dutch presence on the Costa Blanca North
The province of Alicante, of which the Costa Blanca North is part, passed 2 million inhabitants for the first time in mid-2024, of whom 477,536 were foreigners. So almost 24% of the population in this region is of foreign origin. Among them is a growing Dutch community: officially there are 15,777 Dutch people living in the province of Alicante. That number has risen sharply in recent years (for comparison: in 2018, 2,868 Dutch people emigrated to Spain, and by 2022 it was already 4,505. Last year's figures are not yet known. But I do think they will have risen further. That makes the Dutch a good 3% of the foreign population in Alicante. Their average age is around 58, which points to a considerable share of retirees. Yet it is not only older people who settle on the Costa Blanca; young families are drawn to the region too. In popular places such as Jávea (Xàbia) almost 47% of residents are now foreign, and in villages in the Jalón valley (Llíber and Alcalalí, for example) foreigners make up more than half the population. The British are traditionally the biggest group here, but the Dutch community has a visible presence too. The Dutch are pushing the British aside at quite a rate.
The share of Dutch buyers on the property market
Foreign buyers play a leading role on the Costa Blanca housing market. Across Spain as a whole, foreign buyers accounted for 14.5% of all property transactions (Q4 2024), but on the Costa Blanca that share is far higher: almost 45.7% of all home sales in this region went to a foreign buyer. Among those international buyers the Dutch are an important group. In the third quarter of 2024, Dutch buyers bought 1,462 homes in Spain, which works out at around 5.9% of all houses sold in that period. That made the Dutch the third largest group of foreign buyers, after the British (8.6% of all sales) and the Germans (6.7%). Even so, it feels odd. I barely hear any Germans here. It feels to me as though half the coast speaks Dutch. On the northern Costa Blanca we even see the Dutch topping the local rankings: in Jávea, in Q4 2023, a good 31.6% of all homes were sold to Dutch buyers (against 20% to the British). Although the British are still numerous across the region, free movement within the EU means the Dutch can buy a (second) home here and settle relatively easily. The most popular areas among Dutch house hunters include Javea, Altea, Denia, Calpe, Moraira and Benissa on the northern Costa Blanca, alongside inland enclaves such as Rojales, Benijofar, Torrevieja, La Nucía and the Jalón valley, where close-knit Dutch communities have formed. In the Netherlands everything keeps getting more expensive. The regulations are
House price growth over the past 12 months
Every month we share the house price figures. The average price per square metre: €2,253 on the Costa Blanca, the monthly rise: +2.1% and a quarterly rise: +6.8%. And, joking aside, a year-on-year rise: +18.5%. Top 3 most expensive locations per square metre: Moraira – €4,150 Jávea/Xàbia – €3,828 Benissa – €3,713
Prices are climbing fast. The region is suddenly being flooded with influencers. Even Bas Smit has been over with his Bisous wine. Iris Zeilstra opened her branch of Pluk here in Moraira. The region keeps getting more popular. Dutch rules around box 3, rent levels and permanent tenancy contracts are also pushing more and more people to invest abroad. People sometimes say this is the new ‘Ibiza’.
A good combination
Since the 1950s the Costa Blanca North, and the Marina Alta in particular, has been transformed into a prosperous international holiday region. Authentic, historic character, but also an enormous number of Dutch people. In winter you live here comfortably and quietly, and in summer it is a buzzing seaside resort. Every amenity is here. It is an area that stands out for its pleasant climate, its cosmopolitan mix of residents and everything from beaches and mountains to culture and gastronomy. No wonder the region's popularity has only kept rising since the middle of the 20th century, and that today it counts as one of the best-loved destinations on the Mediterranean for holidays and second homes, and even as a permanent place to live. Typical, authentic Spanish markets and tapas bars, but luxury beach clubs and international restaurants too. Is this the region you want to come to more often, and where you want to buy a house?
